Somerdale Gets Festive at IDDBA 18
Somerdale International, which imports British cheeses into the USA, will be showcasing its new, festive, holiday range at this year’s International Dairy-Deli-Bakery Association trade show. The event being held in New Orleans (10th – 12th June) is the largest show in the world serving the dairy, deli and bakery categories and expects to attract more than 10,000 trade visitors and 800 exhibitors. “This year’s IDDBA provides a great platform for us to showcase our range of great tasting cheeses for the holiday season. They combine the very best of traditional British cheese with a festive & fun twist and are set to make a real impact on deli counters across the States over this year’s holiday season,” said Alan Jenkins, Sales Director at Somerdale International.
At IDDBA 18, Somerdale will showcase a range of cheeses ideal for Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year festive cheeseboards. These include:
Holly Day Cheddar – Somerdale’s Holly Day Cheddar, with its fun Father Christmas packaging, is matured for 12 months and has a wonderful nutty sweetness. Little salt crystals form during maturation to give you little bursts of salty delight!! Ideal with a petit Syrah or hoppy IPA.
Red Ribbon Cheddar – perfect for the festive family cheeseboard is Somerdale’s wonderful Red Ribbon Cheddar emblazoned with a jolly snowman. This nutty, sweet tone, cheddar is made and aged on the Barber family farm in the southwest of England, just 15 miles away from Cheddar itself.
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Wensleydale with Lemon and Honey – A heavenly combination of the natural sweetness of lemons and honey with slightly tart, crumbly Wensleydale cheese.
The holiday range also includes Somerdale’s great-tasting Westminster Rustic Red and Westminster Holiday Cheddars matured for at least 12 months and especially created for the festive season. While it will also be offering customers the firm festive favorite of Il Truffelino, which uniquely combines creamy cheddar with aromatic truffle.
Ice Cream as Performance Art: Humphry Slocombe
By Lorrie Baumann
The best ice cream tasted by this year’s sofi™ Award judges was Humphry Slocombe’s Black Sesame. It’s one of a dizzying array of flavors offered by San Francisco, California, entrepreneurs Jake Godby and Sean Vahey, co-Founders of Humphry Slocombe. Godby, a pastry chef by training, is also the company’s Chef, while Vahey, who has a background in food and beverage management, also serves as its Marketing Director.
The Black Sesame flavor includes toasted black sesame seeds with sesame oil added to amp up the flavor even more. The rest of the current lineup includes flavors like POG Sorbet, which combines passion fruit, orange and guava in a nondairy sorbet; Matchadoodle, an ice cream made with green tea from Kyoto and snickerdoodle cookies made in-house; Blueberry Boy Bait, which offers brown sugar streusel stirred into a blueberry ice cream and Dirty Chai, a chai ice cream with espresso in it. The adult-oriented flavors were Godby’s idea, Vahey says. “We didn’t necessarily pigeonhole it as ice cream for adults,” he said. “We just happen to have adult tastes.”
“I just don’t know how to do anything else,” Godby adds. “The ice cream that we make is to my taste. I just didn’t see the reason to duplicate what other people were already doing very well. We were very fortunate that there was a market for what we were making, but we were going to make what we do either way.”
The two originally founded their business in December of 2008 with the thought that what they were starting was going to be just a quirky little ice cream shop in San Francisco’s Mission District. “We’re just being ourselves. We’re lucky that people liked us. This was not test-marketed,” Godby says. “We had no clue that it would blow up the way it did. And it did — it blew up hot.”
It took the business partners two years of wading through bureaucracy and working with contractors to get their doors open, and on their opening day, there was still a sawhorse in their lobby, and Vahey was sweeping up sawdust off the floor. “Most ice cream stores are pink and they’re soft and they’re cute. We are not cute,” Vahey says. “There’s nothing about Jake or I that’s cute or adorable. We’re intense and in-your-face, just like the ice cream. When you came into our shop, you had an experience.”
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Vahey and Godby had eight flavors of ice creams in the case in those days, and they were rotating flavors every day. Customers could sample any or all of the flavors before committing to a whole scoop. “Every ice cream had a story, and that wasn’t happening anywhere,” Vahey says. “We were bringing you into our world.”
“We couldn’t keep up with the demand; the lines were getting longer and longer,” Godby adds.
One of the proprietors’ first surprises was their customer’s apparent fondness for strawberries. Their culinary approach to ice cream required fresh ingredients and seasonal flavors, and their customers were asking for strawberry ice cream in the dead of winter, when there were no strawberries to be found. Finally, when spring came around and strawberries came onto the market, Godby made the ice cream that so many had been requesting, and he called it Here’s Your Damn Strawberry, which is the name by which the flavor is known today at Humphry Slocombe.
The pair didn’t have any marketing budget, but social media was just getting under way, so they made the most of it with posts that created a sensory experience. “We were going to put our faces and our voices into our marketing,” Godby says. We were doing tons of image-heavy ice cream and food porn, and that resonated with a lot of people.”
Today, the packaging for their retail pints reflects that same desire to bring customers into the world of Humphry Slocombe. Packages include a little of Godby and Vahey’s story, and there’s a quote on every carton. “It’s about staying true to ourselves. …You’re still getting that experience. It doesn’t get lost in translation,” Vahey says. “Of course it’s super fun to come into our store, but we want you to have that when you pick up a pint of our ice cream too. At the end of the day, it’s about the ice cream. It’s a unique high quality ice cream that we want you to remember.”
Down a Georgia Road with Cheese
By Lorrie Baumann
CalyRoad Creamery’s retail shop in Sandy Springs, Georgia, is a key component in the business model that provides multiple revenue streams to keep Founder and Owner Robin Schick afloat while she exercises her passion for making artisanal cheeses. Her small creamery and its shop are located in a retail building in a commercial district at the heart of Sandy Springs, a suburb on the north side of Atlanta, Georgia.
Her business plan has three main components for producing revenue from her artisanal cheese production: the retail operation, which includes marketing events and classes as well as her shop sales; wholesale distribution to local foodservice establishments; and distribution to other regional retailers. She’s still working on the economics of a relationship with a wholesale foods distributor into retail that will be a key to real profitability, but she’s able to support her business with the revenues generated through the other streams. “We’re knocking on the door,” Schick said. “I think what we found is that it has to be a combination of revenue streams. We needed to develop the retail aspect — events with corporate team building in which companies bring in their staff and do a wine and cheese tasting or a class together. We do birthday parties here.”
CalyRoad Creamery really started a decade ago with a phone conversation between Schick and her sister Cathy Lynne, who was living on a 13-acre farm with some pet goats. “My sister and I were trying to decide if we wanted to work together and what we wanted to do, Schick says. “We were laughing and joking about milking the goats, and we got serious.” The two of them went to the University of Georgia’s Center for Agribusiness and Economic Development and asked them to do a feasibility study. With the university’s encouragement, Schick and her sister developed a business plan and then did some internships at local farms before heading off to the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese to learn how to make cheese. When they were ready, they found a goat dairy where they could launch their cheesemaking business with a 35-gallon cheese vat and a recipe for chevre while the farmer took care of the animal husbandry. “We quickly realized that there was no way we could learn both sides of this and do it well, so we concentrated on the cheesemaking,” Schick said.
As time went on, the farmer decided to retire from farming, the goat herd was adopted by another dairy, and Schick needed to find a new home for her cheesemaking operation. She decided to leave the farmstead concept behind in favor of a location closer to Atlanta’s urban market. CalyRoad Creamery found its new home in a small building about 60 or 70 years old on a side street in Sandy Springs, about 15 minutes north of downtown Atlanta. With 900 square feet of production space, 100 square feet of retail shop space and herself as the cheesemaker, Schick was back in business. “We had a very nice following in nine farmers markets and a nice following with wholesale into some of the white tablecloth restaurants in Atlanta,” she said. “We quickly realized that with a 35-gallon vat, we were never going to produce enough to make a living.”
That realization would be enough to knock the wind out of most women, and Schick was no exception. Then she had what she calls a “Little Epiphany,” which is now the name of one of her cheeses, a high-moisture, soft-ripened cow milk cheese with delicate floral notes that she’d just figured out how to make when she was at her most discouraged about the future of her business.
She’d just moved into the new production facility, and she was making cheese she loved, but with her tiny vat, she just wasn’t making money, she told her mom. Her mom asked her if she was actually losing money. Schick said no, she was covering her bills — she just wasn’t making a profit. “Then what’s the problem?” her mother asked. “Why are you measuring by money rather than by your experience that making your cheese makes you happy?”
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“It was Christmas time, and I thought they were so right,” Schick said. “It was my epiphany that it didn’t matter. … That cheese is near and dear to my heart.”
When the two retail suites next to her small shop became available, she had to decide whether to expand or quit, and she decided to expand. She sold her 35-gallon vat and bought a 350-gallon cheese vat and a 700-gallon bulk tank for milk. She built a couple of new aging rooms into the additional space so she can make more cheese varieties. With a total of three aging rooms now, one is dedicated to hard cheese, one to blue cheeses and the third to white mold cheeses.
While in the 35-gallon vat days she was making chevre, a Camembert-style cheese called WayPoint, a feta, and a blue cow milk cheese called Bit O’ Blue, now she’s doing cheddar cheese curds and a tomme-style cheese called Hilderbrand that’s aged a minimum of six weeks, with some of her Hilderbrand inventory now at eight or nine months as she builds her stock for a big order from Delta Airlines.
She has WayPoint and several aged goat cheeses flavored with various spices in her white mold room along with Big Bloomy, a plain aged goat cheese and Black Rock, a pepper bloomy rind that was a 2018 finalist in the Flavor of Georgia Food Product Contest, which, according to the Georgia Department of Agriculture, is “the state’s premier proving ground for small, upstart food companies as well as time-tested products.”
Her cheeses also include Red Top, a flavored goat cheese rubbed with smoked Spanish paprika that’s named after Red Top Mountain, where iron ore was once mined and which is now a state park. Named, like most of Schick’s goat cheeses, for another famous Georgia landmark, Little Stone Mountain is an ash-rind goat cheese that’s a customer favorite.
David Rospond has joined CalyRoad’s creamery as Cheesemaker, Cheese Oracle Tim Gaddis is teaching a couple of classes a month on cheese pairing and cheese board selection in CalyRoad’s shop and Schick is busy dreaming of new cheeses that Rospond will help her make. “I taught him all that I knew, and now we’re both working together to learn more and more,” she said of Rospond. “He has just been a joy to work with. He fell right into it. … He knew how to read the recipes, and he knew intuitively what to do, which is great.”
