sofi Gets Her Kicks from Globally-Inspired Hot Sauces
By Lorrie Baumann
Before COVID-19 and social distancing called a hiatus on casual congregations for sports activities, the U.S. Congress played an annual baseball game for charity since 1909 and Barack Obama, the former U.S. president, got together with friends on the basketball court. Chef Brandon Clark got together with his friends in Richmond, Virginia, to play tennis. “We used to play at night. We’d play three out of five sets, which takes about three hours,” he said. “It was kind of like a club.”
After their games, Clark and his friends would relax with a few beers, and there might be snacks. Sometimes they’d talk about the food that Clark was cooking; sometimes they’d talk about the food that someone had eaten recently at a local restaurant. “All we do is think about food,” Clark said. “It was kind of like a men’s night. It wasn’t just about tennis.”
One night, one of the men dug a bottle of hot sauce he’d just made out of his tennis bag and passed around samples. “One of the other guys bought a barbecue sauce out to the court,” Clark said. “That’s how it started.”
Encouraged by his friends, Clark decided to try his own hand at a hot sauce inspired by the flavors of Kerala, the Indian state on the Malabar Coast that had been the home of his best friend. “I went home, studied that cuisine and put those ingredients in a bottle,” Clark said. Pepper is a major agricultural product of Kerala, as are other spices as well as tea, coffee and cashews. When he brought the hot sauce at one of those evening tennis matches, his friend told him that the sauce tasted like home.
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Don Hopkins, the vice president of sales for a Canadian manufacturer, heard him say that, and the comment started the business wheels in his mind spinning. “Don was like, ‘Let’s look at this and see if we can start a company around it,’ and that’s how it happened,” Clark said. “He’s the business end of the thing. The business plan was super-involved, and that’s just not my forte.”
That was three years ago, and since Clark and Hopkins went into business with a company they called Clark + Hopkins, they’ve turned that hot sauce into a range of eight culinary sauces that bottle the flavors of several cultures from around the world and a pair of Bloody Mary Mixes, and Clark has abandoned the foodservice industry to devote all of his working hours to creating and cooking up sauces. Clark + Hopkins won a sofi Award for the best new product in the hot sauces category in 2019 for its Assam Pepper Sauce, a Scovie Award in 2019 for Chesapeake Bloody Mary and another sofi Award this year, this time a gold award in the hot sauces and barbecue sauces category, for Laos, a hot sauce based on Laotian flavors that includes bird’s eye peppers and habaneros, together with ginger and lemongrass to add brightness and dried shrimp to add a deep note of seafood umami.
The hot sauces are intended to do more than just add a note of heat to a taco or a dish of scrambled eggs – they’re intended to used as cooking sauces that add balanced flavor notes to a variety of dishes. Clark has created a repertoire of recipes for some of those that are posted on the company’s website for home cooks who’d like a little hand-holding as they experiment with the spicy sauces. “They’re all super-duper turn-key. It takes two or three ingredients out of the pantry to create a dish in just a few minutes,” Clark said. “Good or bad – with COVID, people are cooking at home. A lot of folks can’t afford to order take-out every day. They want something interesting to cook. These recipes take no talent.”
“Our chefs in the industry are some of our biggest fans,” he added. “We can cater to the real foodies out there and those who just want to try something different.”
The eight sauces in the Clark + Hopkins product range include Virginia, a sauce inspired by traditional Virginia barbecue, with flavors of peaches, peanuts and rye whiskey along with jalapenos and habaneros; Chesapeake, a pepper sauce that combines apple cider vinegar, mustard, bay leaves, ginger and other spices along with jalapenos; and Quintana Roo, a citrusy pepper sauce inspired by Clark’s travels to the Yucatan Peninsula; as well as the original Kerala sauce. Hopkins’ personal favorite among the sauces and Bloody Mary mixes that he’s created is Laos, the sauce that won the gold sofi Award. “It might be the only hot sauce that I know of that’s got dried shrimp in it,” he said. “We are more about flavor than super-duper heat. The Chesapeake is very mild, with jalapenos, and kids can eat that. It’s also a super-versatile sauce – a squeeze of lemon, a little water, the Chesapeake and some oil. It’s a hell of a vinaigrette with just a hint of spice, a little kick. It takes a minute or less, and it goes on a salad.”
Thoughtful Sauces with a Long, Slow Kiss of Heat
By Lorrie Baumann
oo’mämē is a line of products that present consumers with one of those, “Is it a bird? Is it a plane?” moments. The labels for oo’mämē Mexican Chile Infusion and oo’mämē Chinese Chile Infusion both promise “1001 Uses. One Spoon,” and a look past the label and through the glass to the product itself automatically begins suggesting some of those uses to the savvy home cook. Visible through the glass are flakes immediately identifiable as chiles along with ingredients like pieces of dried fruits and whole seeds that are meticulously listed in the product’s ingredient label. Clearly, oo’mämē Founder Mark Engel is not a proponent of the five-ingredients-or-less school of thought, since these 14-ingredient lists eschew simplicity in favor of complexity and depth, a promise that’s redeemed in full once the jar is opened and the spicy aromas of culinary traditions developed through eons of experience waft into the atmosphere. “These recipes are hacks to make great food easily,” Engel said. “You can do anything with it, but everyone has his own way.”
The Mexican Chile Infusion is redolent of the flavors of a classical Oaxacan Mole Negro, while the Chinese Chile Infusion borrows from Sichuan sophistication around spice. These sauces were designed with organoleptic properties to work like mise en place in a jar, an assemblage of ingredients all ready for either a beginner in the kitchen or a home cook with advanced skills to create flavor and complexity in a dish with a simple counter-clockwise twist of a jar lid. The chiles are crispy to add texture as well as spice; the seeds are toasted for crunch as well as depth of flavor; bits of dried fruit are chewy; and the ginger is sweet. “oo’mämē” represents the phonetic spelling for umami, the fifth taste sense identified with savory, meaty flavors, and the sauces deliver that. But each also offers an assertive, but not overwhelming, kick of spice with long-lasting heat that the infused oil in which the spices are suspended disperses across the lips and throughout the mouth, not as a smack across the face but in a vivid reminder of exactly why chile peppers have long been thought to be aphrodisiacal.
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The oil is high-oleic sunflower oil. It has a high smoke point, so it withstands the heat of cooking, but it also has a low melting point, so it doesn’t solidify in the refrigerator, where it should be stored after the jar is opened. The oil can be spooned out and used either with or without the inclusions as an oil for stir-frying, as a finishing oil, as the spice for a vegetable dip, to stir into mayonnaise for a sandwich spread, to spoon over scrambled eggs or to add zip to a soup or a stew. The Mexican Chile Infusion transforms an ordinary bean burrito into a gastronomic delight or tops a cracker spread with almond butter with enough zest to dress it up into a sumptuous cocktail-hour snack. “I created these chile sauces to make cooking easier for me and my family,” Engel said. “I wanted to have great-tasting food, but I didn’t want to spend an hour prepping every night.”
Engel’s own favorite uses for the sauces include mixing them into nut butters to use as a dressing for grilled meats, rice or noodles. “When you put it on top of a runny egg, it’s nothing short of heaven,” he added.
oo’mämē sauces are made in the U.S., and they’re plant-based, with low sodium and gluten free. Two new flavors will be out this summer: Indian Chile Infusion and Moroccan Chile Infusion. “Chile is always the backbone, because that’s what we do,” Engel said. The sauces are packaged in 9.2-ounce wide-mouth glass jars that retail for $16 each. For more information, visit www.oomame.net.
BRIANNAS Fine Salad Dressings Introduces Two New Flavors
BRIANNAS Fine Salad Dressing has introduced two new premium dressing flavors perfect for summer, Blueberry Balsamic Vinaigrette and Organic Apple Cider Vinaigrette. The flavors are available now in retailers throughout the United States.
“These two flavors pack a rich profile and offer a great variety to mix up salads or marinate meat before popping on the grill,” said Jeffrey Sadler, Vice President of Sales. “By using high quality ingredients to produce great-tasting dressings, you can also feel good about what you are eating.”
The dressings contain no artificial flavors, no gluten, no high fructose corn syrup, no trans-fat, and no MSG.
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Blueberry Balsamic Vinaigrette is a refreshing blend of oil and balsamic vinegar of Modena with blueberries, U.S. Grade A honey and black pepper. It is available in a 12-ounce bottle and only 90 calories per serving.
Organic Apple Cider Vinaigrette is a delightful blend of apple cider vinegar with mother and spices. It is non-GMO, certified organic and kosher, and is available in a 10-ounce bottle with only 45 calories per serving.
