Fairway Campaign to Highlight Greek Authenticity
By Lorrie Baumann
Fairway Market, which operates stores in New York, Connecticut and New Jersey, has partnered with Olive Roots on a program that will give its customers the chance to discover a variety of authentic foods from small Greek and Cypriot producers. “I am looking forward to our Greece country program to see the success of the new brands we selected,” said Chris Garzino, Fairway Market’s Director of Specialty. “Many of the brands will be new to the U.S. and I believe they will give our customer a greater feel into the culture of the country.”
Olive Roots is a boutique specialty food exporter that specializes in streamlining the process of bringing more Greek food products into the U.S. “Lots of these products are really hard to find,” said Olive Roots Founder Katerina Barka. “You’d have to travel and get lost on your way to find the village – it’s impossible to find them anywhere.”
Barka launched her company at the 2018 Summer Fancy Food Show after noticing that the Americans she knew were appreciative of the Greek products she was sharing with them, but neither they nor she could find them in American stores. When she approached Fairway Market, the buyers’ first response was a little quizzical, since she was making the kind of inquiry on behalf of Greek food and food producers that they’d ordinarily expect to hear from a country’s trade mission. “They looked at us like, ‘Who are you?’” Barka said. But they listened to her proposal and eventually agreed that they’d go to Greece and let Barka introduce them to artisanal food producers from Greece and Cyprus. “They had meetings with all of them,” Barka said. “We presented them with the best of the best companies.”
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Ultimately, Fairway agreed to provide shelf space for products from 18 of those companies for a six-month trial period. “Those that do well will stay here indefinitely, like any other brand,” Barka said. Fairway will also kick off the trial with a three-week promotion that includes publicity and in-store demonstrations and sampling events. “As part of the promo campaign, we will run a contest,” Barka said. The contest will offer participating shoppers the chance to win one of two culinary-focused trips, one to Greece and one to Cyprus. The promotional campaign will kick off with a September 26 breakfast at Fairway’s Red Hook store and continue for the following three weeks through October 17.
The products selected by Fairway for its shelves include estate olive oils, natural jams and juices, baking mixes, artisan cheeses, spiced sea salts, raw honey and honey spreads and traditional soup mixes, cookies and sesame spreads. “Most of the products will make their debut in the U.S. market and are products that, until now, one could only find if they traveled to Greece and a local gave them foods from their pantry,” Barka said.
Barka is optimistic that Fairway’s shoppers will enjoy the opportunity that Fairway is presenting. She points out that Americans are interested in the Mediterranean diet and that many are already familiar with Greek cuisine. Greek-Americans have done a good job of running festivals spotlighting Greek cuisine across the U.S., so there are Americans everywhere who are potential customers for the products they’d need to duplicate aspects of that cuisine for their own tables, she said. “We are looking into opening up more stores for these kind of products,” she said. “Americans love Greek food – there’s not a lot of real Greek food here. We will see more…. Eventually, we’d like to have a lot of these products available.”
A Condiment that Comes with Community
By Lorrie Baumann
To make it in the U.S., you need either financial capital or intellectual capital, according to Gerard Bozoghlian, whose family emigrated from Argentina to the U.S. in 1991; “Mom’s rich intellectual capital is an archive of Argentine culinary methods and traditions.”
Those recipes included authentic recipes for Argentinian chimichurri sauces that his mother, Azniv, had developed while she was cooking for the Bozoghlian family and friends. Azniv, herself of Greek descent and who had grown up in a Greek neighborhood in Argentina; the food she’d been served at home was what she knew. After she married Bozoghlian’s father, Carlos, and settled into housekeeping, she felt the need to expand her culinary repertoire, so she took herself off to culinary school. “The running joke in the family is that Dad told Mom that he could eat dolmades and moussaka a couple of times a week, but that he wanted his dose milanesa, lasagna and empanadas as often as possible,” Bozoghlian says. “She really has an ardent passion for food, to become one with the essence, the roots and eventual influences of Argentine culinary traditions. Every family vacation was grounded and planned around culinary excursions. Visiting the Rosa Mosqueta harvest in Bariloche or the tomato harvest in Rio Negro. As a family, much of our time spent bonding revolved around the discovery of ingredients and the overall appreciation of food and wine.”
After the family moved to the U.S. when Gerard, the youngest of three brothers, was 15, the older boys went off to college, one to UCLA and one in Pasadena, and the whole family focused on finding a sense of community for themselves in West Hollywood. “In Argentina, everyone was home for dinner at 9 p.m. In the States in the ‘90s, honoring a nightly family dinner schedule was a challenge. There was an increasing feeling of separation,” Bozoghlian says. “In Buenos Aires, extended family gatherings were the norm on the weekends. Here, we just had the five of us, and the Los Angeles work/university travel times and distances were spreading us thin. Maintaining our strongly bonded family unit meant everything.”
The family worked hard to turn Azniv’s recipe collection into the basis for a menu for an authentic Argentinian steakhouse that began attracting other Argentine emigres. “Slowly we developed the community we dreamed to have,” Bozoghlian says. Today we’re blessed to have guests who have been dining with us for 22 years. Families that discovered us when their children were toddlers are now hosting their college graduation celebrations at Carlitos Gardel.”
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Eventually, Max Bozoghlian, the oldest of the three brothers, became one of an early wave of professional sommeliers in Los Angeles, Rodrigo went off to law school, and Gerard, at 21, graduated from his apprenticeship under his mother to become the restaurant’s general manager. A couple of years later, Azniv decided that she’d laid enough of a foundation for the restaurant’s kitchen that she could take a step back from working a regular shift at the restaurant — although she is still very much in charge of the desserts there.
Somehow, Gerard decided that he wasn’t busy enough just operating the restaurant, and he began working on the development of recipes for the sauces so they could be preserved as shelf-stable products while still maintaining their authentic character. He found mentors in Freddy Carbajal, Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Dotta Foods International, Inc., and Eliot Swartz, co-Founder and co-Chair of Two Chefs on a Roll, Inc. “Freddy really took me under his wing. Introduced me to some of the top food scientists,” Bozoghlian says. “He wanted to see me succeed. Even with his and others’ help, it took five years to formulate the first product that’s shelf-stable, authentic in terms of composition: staying true to authentic ingredients found in chimichurri; and also authentic in terms of consistency. We don’t produce an emulsified paste. We produce a hand-crafted, free-flowing sauce, and it goes into the jar that way. There’s never a time when the full integrity of the sauce is not honored.”
“Argentines respond to Gardel’s Chimichurri because they recognize it as what they’ve always known chimichurri to be,” he continues. “That was my goal — to stay true and honor our traditions.”
Some of that story is now on the label of each of Gardel’s Fine Foods’ chimichurri sauces. All made with 100 percent extra virgin olive oil and no added sugar, they are Chimichurri Balsamico, Chimichurri Spicy Balsamico, Chimichurri Autentico and Chimichurri Lime. Each jar holds 8 ounces of sauce and retails for $8.99 to $11.99. Nationwide distribution is available. For more information, visit www.chimichurrisauce.com.
Briton Brings Taste for Bangers to American Shores
By Lorrie Baumann
Jolly Posh Foods got started in the early years of the 21st century (2009) with a trans-Atlantic love story. Nick Spencer, the company’s owner, was born and raised in the United Kingdom, grew up and started working for Ernst & Young in London. That’s what he was doing when he met Connie, a Chicago native, in a London bar. Sparks flew.
The couple dated long-distance for three years until Spencer could persuade Ernst & Young to transfer him to New York. Connie moved there from Chicago to join him, and they eventually married.
Then, late in 2009, in the midst of the Great Recession, Spencer’s New York assignment with Ernst & Young had ended, and the couple decided that they’d move back to Chicago to be closer to Connie’s family and to start a little family of their own. “It wasn’t the best year for either of us to be looking for work, so we decided to start our own companies,” Spencer said.
Connie opened an independent law practice, and Spencer started thinking about what he could do that wouldn’t involve stepping back into the corporate world and that would take advantage of Chicago’s strength as a manufacturing and trade center for the food processing industry. “Nothing is easy, but I thought I’d start with something that, on the surface of it, sounded rather simple,” he said. “I was in the right place.”
He’d already realized, over the few years he’d lived in New York with Connie, that he was missing the good British food that he’d enjoyed in London. The “British food” he’d been offered in the United States reminded him of the nation’s historical cuisine – the stodgy “meat and two veg” that had come to characterize cooking in the British and Irish isles after World War II’s deprivations and rationing had come to an end but the post-war hardships remained.
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Spencer decided that his new business would introduce Chicagoans to the modern British take on a couple of foods already familiar to them – sausages and bacon. He made some bangers and took them out to farmers markets, then opened a little grocery store in 2012, then a little cafe and then a bigger restaurant near Wrigley Field. “We were having kids at the time – we now have three,” he said. “We decided to get out of the restaurant business and focus on the wholesale business, which is now the full-time effort.”
His Jolly Posh product line comprises five products – two flavors of Bangers, a Back Bacon made with pork loin, and Black Pudding (blood sausage) and White Pudding (pork and oatmeal sausage). His banger sausages come in two different flavors: the classic Traditional Pork Bangers seasoned with white pepper, nutmeg and ginger and a Pork and Herb Banger that’s seasoned with sage, thyme and parsley. “We stuff them in natural pork casings, and when you cook them, they’re plump, juicy and nicely sized,” Spencer said. “When you cook them, it’s just like buying them from your local butcher back home.” The fully-cooked bangers packaged for retail sale have five links in a 12-ounce package that retails for $7.99. “Microwave it, fry it, bake it – whatever you fancy,” Spencer said. “All you have to do is warm it up.”
Jolly Posh also offers Back Bacon, bacon that’s made from the loin of the hog – essentially a thinly-sliced pork chop – so it’s a lot leaner than American bacon. “It’s cured and not smoked for a lovely, meaty texture and flavor,” Spencer said. The 8-ounce package retails for $6.99 to $7.99, and a larger foodservice pack is also available. The final two products in the range include the Black Pudding and White Pudding, which are generally eaten as part of a full Irish breakfast, Spenser said.
“One fun fact about the bangers is that in Britain, we don’t really have a concept of the breakfast sausage, so we’ll eat bangers for breakfast, lunch or dinner,” he added. For breakfast, the main item on the plate might be bangers, while at lunchtime, the bangers might appear in panini or sandwiches. At dinner, the meal might consist of bangers and mash, which is bangers served with a generous helping of mashed potatoes, garden peas and gravy. Bacon is likely to appear on the table in sandwiches, in a pasta carbonara or even on top of a hamburger or a dish of macaroni and cheese, Spencer said.
Jolly Posh Foods products are distributed nationally by European Imports and Sysco, in the Midwest by Fortune Gourmet and Great Western Beef and by Food Innovations in Florida. For more information, email nick@jollyposhfoods.com or visit in the European Imports booth throughout the Summer Fancy Food Show.
