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Global Cuisine

Asian Flavors Inspire Torani’s Newest Flavor

By A.J. Flick, Senior Editor

Leading flavor creator Torani raised a lot of eyebrows when it announced its inaugural Pourcast Flavor of the Year: Salted Egg Yolk Syrup.

But it brought a smile to expert bartender Ty Young’s face.

(c) J. Martin Harris Photography

My dad is Chinese-American and my mother is Japanese-American,” said Young, who owns and operates Shaken & Stirred, a bartending staffing and consulting service in Tucson, Arizona. “I’ve grown up with Asian food from the moment I can remember eating.

One of my favorite treats at dim sum is Harm Tarn Soh. The salted egg yolk taste and flavor are so distinctive that my mind takes me back to my time visiting Macau as a youngster,” said Young, who was event mixologist for James Beard Award-winning Chef Chris Bianco’s restaurants. “These pastries were actually created in France, but were brought to China during the spice and silk trading efforts by Marco Polo. The flavor took hold throughout China and Southeast Asia.

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Our Flavor of the Year is the culmination of years of research and development and as serious ‘flavor geeks,’ we couldn’t be more excited,” said Torani CEO Melanie Dulbecco. “Torani is committed to delivering amazing flavor for all, and Puremade Salted Egg Yolk is an especially fun innovation that showcases our passion for flavor.”

Salted egg yolk continues to gain momentum and is used around the globe to enhance both sweet and savory cuisines and beverages, including ice creams, pastries, boba teas and potato chips – even McDonald’s french fries in Singapore. Salted egg yolk is often promoted leading up to Lunar New Year (Feb. 1 this year), with its signature golden hue signifying prosperity, a central theme of the holiday.

Our research has shown consumers’ growing interest in salted egg yolk as a flavor, both abroad and within the U.S. in recent years,” said Andrea Ramirez, Torani’s consumer and customer market insight manager. “Not only is it delicious and versatile, but it’s a flavor that reflects the current culinary tourism trend in which consumers seek new foods and beverages from around the globe, even from the comfort of their homes.”

Torani Puremade Salted Egg Yolk Syrup was developed by Torani Flavor Scientists Melissa Dyandra, Mailyne Park and Lance Schwarzkopf. Their work on the lab benchtop included dozens of formulations before the team ultimately landed on the final flavor, which delivers an elusive richness, deep orange color and just the right amount of sweetness. The distinctive syrup is sweet and salty, making it perfect for milk teas, milkshakes, espresso drinks, cold brews and more. Like all products in Torani’s Puremade Syrup line, it is made with pure cane sugar, all natural flavors, color from natural sources, no preservatives and no GMOs.

Read the full story in the February issue of Gourmet News. Subscribe now so you don’t miss anything!

Meska Sweets Offers a Taste of Morocco

By Lorrie Baumann

There was a time before the pandemic when the only places you were likely to encounter the Moroccan-style macarons made by Meska Sweets was in a fine New York restaurant or in the gift basket you received when you checked into your luxury suite at one of the city’s finer hotels. COVID-19 has changed that, and Meska Sweets is ready to see its cookies on the shelves of specialty grocers.

Meska Sweets entered the American market in 2016 with a line of hand-made, almond-rich, Moroccan-style macarons that were offered in the foodservice channel.
The cookies were adopted by upscale chefs for their white tablecloth restaurants. In December, 2018, Florence Fabricant pointed out in the New York Times that Meska Sweets’ cookie line included classics like crescent-shaped cornes de gazelle and honey-sesame chebakia that were traditional Moroccan teatime treats, although Meska was also innovating them with flavors like matcha designed to keep up with trends sweeping the American food culture. “It’s our grandmother’s recipe that we’ve upgraded to fit within the American taste,” said General Manager Mehdi Menouar. Meska’s Orange Blossom and Almond Macaron won the award for the best cookie at Kosherfest 2018.

When the pandemic arrived in the U.S. in 2020, Meska Sweets’ foodservice-centered business felt the tremors along with New York’s restaurant and hospitality industry, and Menouar took some time to think about how he could introduce his cookies into the retail channel.
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Grocers had already told him that the short shelf life of his macarons was an obstacle to that, so he had to figure out a way to lengthen the shelf life of his offerings without damaging the qualities that had made them so valuable in the foodservice market – they had to remain an American-influenced interpretation of their Moroccan heritage, and they had to remain all natural, with no preservatives or artificial colors. Menouar traveled home to Morocco to consult with bakers there about how to do that, and he came back to the United States with a new product line of Moroccan cookies that could be hand-made in a Casablanca bakery approved by the American Food and Drug Administration in quantities that could be scaled to support a national launch into the American retail market.

Like the foodservice line, Meska Sweets’ new retail line of cookies is all natural, with no colorants, and has a 12-month shelf life with no preservatives. “We’re sticking to all of those things,” Menouar said. “We’re super-excited about it. We’ve always had this issue of shelf life. Grocers will be much happier with the longer shelf life.”

Five flavors are offered for retail shelves: three sweet varieties and two that are savory and beg to be paired with cheese. “You don’t get to see a lot of savory biscuits on the shelves,” Menouar said. “What’s really cool about the Moroccan gastronomy that most people don’t appreciate is that we’re at the intersection of African and Mediterranean food. The Spanish and the French colonized Morocco at one time, so the food represents a fusion of traditions. You have this complete mixture of ingredients and spices, a true melting pot of aromas and tastes, and what we’re trying to do is build on that with our cookies and biscuits, and, hopefully, folks will like them.”

Savory Oregano Moroccan Bites, flavored with mustard as well as oregano and a touch of pepper, and Savory Paprika Moroccan Bites, with mustard and chile pepper as well as the paprika, are the two savory flavors. The sweet varieties include Sweet Ginger and Almond & Raisins Moroccan Bites and a third called Palmier Bites that’s a bite-size twist on a French-style Elephant ears pastry, rich with butter and deliciously sweet. All of them are bite-size nibbles – each a little smaller than a tea cookie, so that a 5.3-ounce box contains about 50. The cookies are sealed into an inner foil pouch inside the box to help maintain their freshness, and a box retails for $4.99.

Nutritionally Dense Cooking Sauces with Global Flavors

By Lorrie Baumann

Mesa de Vida is a line of cooking sauces based on fruits and vegetables that are designed to inject flavor and convenience into meals prepared with the intention of catering to those concerned about maintaining their health. “My goal is to make products that make it easier for people to cook, to get to the table more often, and they don’t have to sacrifice flavor or health for a great meal,” said Kirsten Sandoval, the Founder, Chief Executive Officer and Chef behind Mesa de Vida. The line currently has five sauces: Smoky Latin, Creole, Caribbean, Mediterranean and North African. The next sauce to join the line is likely to be one based on an Asian flavor profile, Sandoval said.

She started making sauces while she was working as a personal chef catering to the performance needs of professional athletes. “They needed to be eating healthier foods. My players were like little boys – they didn’t like eating their vegetables,” Sandoval said. But while the athletes didn’t necessarily want to see vegetables on their plates, they still needed the nutrition that vegetables provide, so Sandoval responded by creating flavor bases from fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices that she could add to soups and stews. Her goal was a low-sodium flavor base with no added sugar that she could conveniently add to a wide variety of dishes to create the flavors that clients preferred along with the nutrition that allowed them to perform at their best. Each client had a customized flavor base that matched the flavors he preferred. “I began altering the flavor bases with food profiles from around the world that the athletes recognized as the flavors of their homes,” she said. “If I made them a chili, it had the flavor they were looking for…. They were getting the nutrition they needed, and they weren’t looking at a pile of vegetables.”

After a day of cooking for her high-profile clients, she’d come home to her family and cook dinner for them. It didn’t take her long to figure out that she could use at home the same idea that had served her to manage the nutritional needs and personal tastes of her clients, especially since her children had their own nutritional needs and personal tastes. She tried looking for some of those flavor bases in the spice aisles of her local grocers but found that the spice blends she was seeing there often contained the salt or sugar that she didn’t want to include in her food and realized that other home cooks were faced with the same problem for which she already had a solution – a range of global gourmet recipe starters and cooking sauces that are concentrated flavor bases common in professional kitchens, but made for the home cook.

She launched her business in 2017, while she was still working as a personal chef by selling the sauces online and at small specialty shops. “I would drag my kids around to farmers markets to start getting the word out about them,” she said. “You don’t have to buy every spice under the sun to have a meal with global flavors, and you don’t have to chop a whole basket of fruits and vegetables as well.”

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She notes that each of the sauces in the line can be used to flavor a wide variety of soups, stews and slow-cooker recipes, and each represents a region with a culinary tradition of gathering around the table every day. “I really hope that these sauces can have people here have that same inspiration and help them get to the table every day,” she said.

The Mediterranean sauce is the newest in the line. Its flavor profile is characteristic of Italy and Greece rather than the northern Africa area of the Mediterranean region. “It’s a fantastic base for a simple beef stew. Beef, a jar of sauce, some chickpeas and into the slow cooker,” she said. “It’s a really rich jar, so when you open the jar, it’s like cooking from scratch. It’s like having your personal chef do most of the work for you.”

The next sauce that’s in development is a response to consumer requests for an Asian-inspired sauce that’s free from gluten and is low in sodium, Sandoval said. “From there the sky’s the limit,” she added. “I would love to start developing more obscure regional flavors that people find new and also global hot sauces. I want it to be something that customers can’t find very easily and that also have the health profile they need. That’s the mission going forward.”

Each of the sauces is packaged in a 9-ounce jar that retails for $8.99 on Mesa de Vida’s website at www.mesadevida.com, which also offers additional information.