A Salmon Called Frankenfish
By Micah Cheek
The Food and Drug Administration has approved the sale of genetically modified salmon in the US, sparking conflict in seafood circles and setting a new precedent for genetically modified foods in the US market. Aqua Bounty, the company producing salmon modified to grow at a faster rate, was approved to sell their product, AquAdvantage Salmon, after data from their organization was analyzed along with data from other peer reviewed sources, determining that the health and environmental risks to the fish’s production are low, and that the genetically modified salmon is not nutritionally different than its conventionally-bred alternative.
Various environmental groups and seafood organizations have spoken out against the FDA’s decision, contending that the animal has the potential to cause serious damage if it escaped into the wild. Concerns over environmental damage and risks to human health have vocalized consumers and pushed many retailers to publicly announce their refusal to sell Aqua Bounty’s salmon. Aqua Bounty has declined an interview request for this story.
Dana Perls, Food and Technology Campaigner with Friends of the Earth, an environmental reform group, says that public concern is based in a lack of consensus in the scientific community over genetically modified foods. “Consumers have strongly vocalized that they don’t want to eat GMO seafood or meat,” says Perls. “There are far too many risks for consumers to feel that this is sustainable or healthy; in fact, scientific studies point to the opposite.”
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Critics of the FDA approval contend that using studies that Aqua Bounty itself conducted is unacceptable, as Aqua Bounty has a stake in the results of the findings. One document used to counter the FDA’s decision is a draft risk assessment of the environmental and human health risks of Aqua Bounty’s salmon conducted by Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Information in the assessment suggests that the genetic modification to the salmon can produce fish with inconsistent growth rates. This, groups suggest, indicates that the genetic modification process is not well-controlled or predictable. While the assessment does state that the salmon’s accelerated growth rates are highly variable based on environment, a summary of the assessment released by Fisheries and Oceans Canada goes on to indicate that AquAdvantage salmon pose a low risk to both the Canadian environment and human health.
Jacqueline Claudia, CEO of Love The Wild and formerly the Chief Strategy Officer of Kanpachi Farms, says that the risks involved in adding GMO fish to the menu have been overblown. It should be noted that Love The Wild will not be using genetically modified seafood in its products. “From a scientific perspective, a lot of issues in the media are just not true,” Claudia says. For instance, there have been concerns that escaped genetically modified fish could wreak environmental havoc if they escape. “In order to produce this gene[the genetic modification that makes the salmon grow faster], what happens is you get all females. And only 1.1 percent of those fish are capable of reproducing,” says Claudia. While the FDA’s draft risk assessment says that Aqua Bounty’s methods have been 99.8 percent effective at inducing sterility, the assessment by Fisheries and Oceans Canada says that Aqua Bounty only ensured an effectiveness of at least 95 percent. Claudia continues, “Let’s just say the stars align and it lands in the right gravel bed and finds a male salmon. The chances of them reproducing are really ridiculously small.” Claudia adds that part of the reason the genetically modified salmon grow so fast is because they have to eat all through the year, rather than hibernating as conventional salmon do. This, plus the fact that the modified fish have smaller fins than conventional varieties, suggests that any progeny of an escaped modified salmon would be unfit to live in the wild and pass along their genes.
Claudia believes that increasing yields with genetic modification has the potential to help feed the world in a less expensive and more environmentally responsible way. In addition, she believes that in the future, organisms could be modified to be disease resistant, reducing the need for antibiotics. “If people were to understand the science, we could increase the welfare of the animals.” While she believes the potential benefits of genetically modified fish are high, she believes fisheries should focus on selective breeding methods first, as the limits of that kind of growth optimization have not been fully reached.
While argument in the environmental and scientific communities continues, public opinion has already begun to turn the tide economically. In a 2013 New York Times poll, three-quarters of respondents said they would not eat genetically modified fish. A Friends of the Earth petition urging retailers to publicly refuse to sell genetically modified salmon has been signed by some heavy hitters in grocery retail. ”Customers have spoken, and we have seen companies such as Kroger and Costco stand up as leaders in seafood sustainability,” says Perl. “Fishing communities around the world are also rejecting GMO salmon because of environmental risks and the economic impacts it could have.” With such a strong public reaction, it is difficult to see where AquAdvantage salmon’s place would be in the US market. “We’ve had pretty much every grocery chain refuse to sell it; I struggle to see how anyone will sell it,” adds Claudia. “I don’t think we’ll see a lot more GMO fish if the first one in the market is just flatly rejected.”
Natural by Every Name at 2016 Natural Products Expo West
by Greg Gonzales
Consumers aren’t lone wanderers seeking sustenance and flavor in supermarket wastelands full of bland junk. Just look at the list of products at this year’s Natural Products Expo West to see why. Those attending have the chance to sample some of the best in natural products, with exhibitors debuting tasty, affordable and nutrition-packed products that fit every diet. In addition to product launches, attendees will have a chance to attend educational sessions about the industry.
Author and consumer strategist Martha Rogers will be speaking on consumer influence Thursday, March 10, to help company teams cultivate and maintain a reputation as a trustworthy brand. Attendees can also turn on, tune in and chill out in the morning at a yoga session on the Grand Plaza before hitting the show floor. Bust some myths about organic and learn how “Organic Will Feed the World” on March 9 in the Marriott Grand Ballroom. “The Business Case for Going Organic” session will answer questions anyone has about making the switch for their business, too, on March 10 in Grand Ballroom F. And on the very definition of natural, Jason Sapsin, former Associate Chief of Counsel to the FDA, will be speaking about public commentary to the FDA, on March 9 in Marriott Grand Ballroom G/H.
On the show floor, Shire City Herbals will exhibit the powerful Fire Cider brand. They’ll be introducing their new, fully-organic, African Bronze Fire Cider. It looks like something out of grandma’s medicine cabinet, in 8-ounce apothecary-style bottles, and tastes like it, too. Sweetened with raw honey and flavored with organic, whole, raw orange, lemon, onion, ginger, horseradish, habenero pepper, garlic and tumeric, this stuff has one hellacious, invigorating kick. Mix an ounce into a Bloody Mary, add some fire to a salad dressing and get creative with the eclectic blend of tangy, spicy and sweet. Email info@firecider.com for more information or stop by Hot Products.
Coffee drinkers who seek transparency, organic certification, social good and a morning jolt in a single cup might look to Ethical Bean’s booth. This certified B Corporation will be cupping its fair-trade, organic, kosher coffee to NPEW this year, including their new pre-ground Sweet Espresso blend. The team will have show-goers anticipating the perfect cup from a Ratio coffee maker, which brews machine-precision pour-over style java. And come prepared with a QR reader app: Ethical Bean packaging features a QR code that’s unique to each product, and takes people on a journey from crop to cup. Take your own journey in Hall E or call 604.431.3834 to learn more.
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You are what you eat, and in some cases, you can wear what you eat — for health benefits. La Tourangelle’s full line of 20 different oils includes its Special Reserve Hazelnut Oil, which just won the Good Food Award in January. Get a taste of France with all-new infused oils, made with fresh herbs including basil, garlic and herb de provence from a family-owned French farm. The propellant-free Sun Coco Spray has a high enough smoke point for grilling, and so does the propellant-free Avocado Oil Spray. And get vital antioxidants, vitamin E and omega 3 with the Organic Amazonian NutriBlend Oil, made from sacha inchi. Follow the savory scents around Hall E to see for yourself, and learn more from sales@latourangelle.com.
Savory and specialty desserts are going to be a hit this year with Taza Chocolate’s fresh additions to the Amaze Bar line. Taza has expanded the line to include a permanent addition of its Maple Pecan bar, and its seasonal bars will have attendees longing for a cabin in the woods. The 70 percent dark chocolate Cranberry Pumpkin Spice bar actually contains pumpkin seeds. And the 60 percent dark chocolate Gingerbread Cookie bar, with gingerbread spices and organic, gluten-free, vegan ginger snaps is sure to be a hit. Taza’s stone milled chocolate products are all certified gluten free, organic, non-GMO verified, direct trade certified, dairy free, soy free and vegan. The bars retail for $5. See how this chocolate gets you closer to the cocoa bean in Hall E or email press@tazachocolate.com.
Ancient Harvest is also looking at a big year, offering NPEW attendees a sneak peak at their new packaging and products. The new protein pasta meal kits are complete, nutritious meals with lentil and quinoa protein pasta as the base, that come in two flavors, Il Italiano and Cubanitos. Then there’s the new savory ancient grain bars, which pack 10 grams of plant-based protein and 7 grams of fiber into one bar. Try all three flavors, including Garden Vegetable, Garlic & Herb and Roasted Jalapeno. Ancient Harvest combines ancient grains and quinoa with beans and lentils to create gluten-free foods that provide the same taste, texture and valuable nutrition consumers expect from any other meal. The ancient grain bars retail for $1.89 and the meal kits go for $5.89. See how food can be easy and delicious in Hall D, and visit ancientharvest.com to learn more.
The Natural Products Expo West in Anaheim, CA, runs March 9–12 at the Anaheim Hilton and also March 11–13 at the Anaheim Convention Center.
Commission Recommends Solutions for Hunger
By Lorrie Baumann
The U.S. doesn’t have a shortage of food or a shortage of food assistance programs. Despite that, in 2014, 5.6 percent of American households – that’s about 7 million households – had experienced hunger in the past year, for an average of about seven months, according to a new report from the National Commission on Hunger titled “Freedom from Hunger: An Achievable Goal for the United States of America.” The commission was created by Congress to recommend ways to use existing USDA funds to combat domestic hunger and food insecurity.
Hunger in the United States isn’t a result of famine; it comes from many factors that mean that, while there’s food available, many people can’t afford enough of it. The percent of households facing hunger rose from 4.1 percent in 2007, before the Great Recession, to 5.4 percent in 2010, and it’s been holding steady around 5.6 percent ever since, despite six years of economic recovery.
Some of that’s because not enough Americans are working or are underemployed. Labor force participation has been declining since its peak in 2000, which means that many people who could work aren’t doing so. Structural changes in the American economy, away from manufacturing and toward more service jobs, have meant that there are fewer job opportunities for people who don’t have a college education. If you graduated from high school and went right to work, you’re more likely to hold a job that pays low wages and is part-time, unstable or seasonal. The job may not have much opportunity for career advancement and may not offer benefits such as sick leave and family leave. These jobs are also associated with major income instability, and these are the kinds of conditions that can cause a household to experience hunger, according to the report. “We hear every day loud and clear from all areas of the state that people can’t support their families,” said Donna Yellen, Chief Program Officer from Preble Street, which operates eight local soup kitchens in Maine, in her testimony before the Commission. “They can’t get food because they can’t find decent jobs.”
The costs of hunger include greater health care expenditures, reduced worker productivity and greater rates of worker absenteeism. Senior adults are among the most vulnerable to hunger, and the number of older adults is expected to rive over the next few decades. Compared to seniors who don’t experience hunger, those who are hungry are three times as likely to suffer from depression, 50 percent more likely to have diabetes and 60 percent more likely to have congestive heart failure or a heart attack.
Hunger also has indirect costs, including impairment of childhood health and development, which exacts a price in their academic achievement and even their mental health. About 4.4 million of people in households that include children under 6 are in households that report hunger, and households headed by single parents are particularly vulnerable. Adults in these households frequently go without food so they can feed their children, but that affects their ability to juggle parenting, work and self-care, according to the report. Hungry adults have higher rates of obesity and diabetes.
While the government can’t solve the problem of hunger within our borders alone, improvements in government programs can play a part. The government’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (the program formerly known as Food Stamps) needs to get better, as do child assistance programs. Those programs are neither as effective, cooperative or as efficient as they should be, according to the Commission.
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WIC provides food, health care referrals and nutrition education for low-income pregnant or post-partum women and to infants and children under five who are at nutritional risk. In 2014, more than half of all newborn children in the United States participated in the WIC program, which has been credited with a 68 percent reduction in hunger among families with young children. WIC is associated with healthier births, more nutritious diets and improved cognitive development as well as a greater likelihood that children will be immunized, according to Kate Breslin, President and CEO of the Schuyler Center for Analysis and Advocacy, who testified before the Commission.
SNAP is the country’s largest food assistance program. It works by giving low-income individuals and households additional income to buy groceries. SNAP provided assistance to 46.5 million people in an average month in 2014 and is credited with decreasing the percentage of households experiencing hunger by 12 percent to 19 percent. In households participating in SNAP, children are 16 percent less likely to be at risk of developmental delays, and they have lower rates of hospitalization compared to children in similar households that don’t participate in SNAP.
The National School Lunch and School Breakfast Programs operate in more than 100,000 schools and residential institutions and served more than 30 million students in the 2014 fiscal year. In 2014, nearly 22 million school children received a free or reduced price school lunch.
In addition to these government programs, a variety of individuals, nonprofit organizations, faith-based organizations and corporations are engaged in hunger relief efforts in their communities. These include Feeding America, the largest umbrella organization for food banks and food rescue organizations. In 2010, Feeding America-affiliated agencies distributed food to 37 million Americans, including 14 million children. More recently, in 2015, the Specialty Food Association donated more than 97,000 pounds of food at last Summer’s Fancy Food Show with the help of 324 City Harvest volunteers and another 100,000 pounds of food at the 2015 Winter Fancy Food Show in conjunction with Feed the Hungry. “Stonewall Kitchen, like a lot of other companies here at the Fancy Food Show, is a small company. We’re not a faceless corporation. We know the people in our communities. We donate food, and we work at our local soup kitchens in Maine and New Hampshire, so donating our food here at the show is just a logical extension of that,” said John Stiker, CEO of Stonewall Kitchen.
Most of the Commission’s recommendations for improving government food assistance programs without additional spending relate to improvements in either SNAP or child nutrition programs. For SNAP, the Commission recommendations are intended to promote work, improve nutrition and enhance well-being. In particular, the Commission recommends that Congress and the USDA should require states to encourage SNAP applicants who are able to work to do so by supporting them in their efforts to seek employment or participate in work-related activities that might realistically lead to available jobs. The Commission also recommended that individual states should have more flexibility in how they use employment and training funding tied to SNAP, so that, for instance, a state might use some of its SNAP money to provide substance abuse and mental health treatment if that’s what will help a SNAP recipient get back to work.
The Commission also recommends that Congress and the USDA should find ways to encourage SNAP recipients to purchase fruits, vegetables, high-quality proteins, whole grains and other healthy foods and to disallow the use of SNAP benefits for purchases of sugar-sweetened beverages. These might include requiring grocery stores and other stores that qualify as SNAP vendors to devote more prominent shelf space for healthier foods and vegetables.
